Marinated octopus on sticks with red pipian

Octopus that is frozen and then thawed becomes tender in the process, and so it cooks quickly. Check with the fishmonger before buying, as fresh octopus will need considerably more simmering time. The red pipian is a simplified version of a Colombian pesto-like sauce. It is combined with ancho chili, which is sweet and hot with a fruity fragrance when cooked.

Make the red pipian. Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6. Put the ancho chili in a bowl and cover with water that has just gone off the boil. Leave to soak for about 20 minutes. Meanwhile place the garlic cloves, onion and tomatoes in a roasting pan and drizzle with the oil, sprinkle the sugar and a little salt over the top. Roast for 15 minutes. Add the pine nuts, pumpkin seeds and cinnamon to the top of the mixture and roast for a further 5 minutes. Meanwhile, drain the ancho chili, remove the seeds and chop the flesh.

Transfer the roasted mixture and the ancho chili to a food processor along with the chipotles in adobo or chili sauce, vegetable stock and thyme. Pulse to a puree, and then scrape into a serving bowl and leave to cool.

Trim the tentacles from the head of the octopus. Leave the skin on, but trim any large flaps with kitchen scissors. Discard the head. Place the tentacles in a large pan, cover with cold water and add the onion and bay leaves. Bring slowly to the boil, lower the heat and simmer for about 20 minutes if prefrozen, and up to 2 hours if fresh.

Drain the tentacles and rinse under cold water, rubbing off any loose dark membrane. Thread the tentacles on to the skewers and put in a plastic bag with the olive oil, lemon rind and juice, and chopped coriander. Ties shut and shake to mix. Leave to marinate in a cool place for at least 1 hour or up to 12 hours.

Prepare the barbecue. Once the flames have died down, position a lightly oiled grill rack over the coals to heat. When the coals are medium-hot, or with a moderate coating of ash, grill the octopus skewers for 2-4 minutes each side, or until nicely golden. Serve with the red pipian, garnished with the coriander sprigs.

Serves 8
1 kg/ 2 ¼ b whole octopus
1 onion, quartered
2 bay leaves
30ml/2 tbsp olive oil
Grated rind and juice of 1 lemon
15ml/1 tbsp chopped fresh coriander (cilantro)
8 metal skewers
For the red pipian
1 ancho chili (dried poblano)
4 whole garlic cloves, peeled
1 small pink onion, chopped
500g/ 1 ¼ lb plum tomatoes, cored and seeded
30ml/2 tbsp olive oil
Sml/1 tsp sugar
30ml/2 tbsp pine nuts
30ml/2 tbsp pumpkin seeds
Pinch of ground cinnamon
15ml/1 tbsp chipotles in
Adobo or other sweet and
Smoky chili sauce
45ml/3 tbsp vegetable stock
leaves from 4 large fresh thyme sprigs, finely chopped
salt
fresh coriander (cilantro) sprigs, to garnish