Salted and grilled sardines

Whole grilled sardines are classic Mediterranean beach food, evoking memories of lazy lunches under rustic awnings, just a step away from the sea. Here they are served with salmoriglio, an Italian herb salsa pounded with sea salt. They can also be cooked on skewers over a dying fire.

Rub the sardines inside and out with salt. Cover and put in a cool place for 30-45 minutes. Make the salmoriglio by adding the salt to a mortar and pounding all the ingredients one at a time with a pestle.

Meanwhile, prepare the barbecue. Rinse the salt off the sardines. Pat them dry with kitchen paper, then leave to air-dry for 15 minutes. Once the flames have died down, position a lightly oiled grill rack over the coals to heat.

When the coals are cool, or with a thick coating of ash, brush the fish with a little oil and put them in a small, hinged, wire barbecue fish basket. If you don't have a wire basket, grill directly on the rack, but oil it well first. Grill for about 3 minutes on one side and about 2 ½ minutes on the other. Serve with the salmoriglio and focaccia.

Serves 4-8
8 sardines, total weight about 800g/ 1 ¾ lb, scaled and gutted
50g/2oz/ ¼ cup salt
focaccia, to serve
Oil, for brushing
For the salmoriglio
5ml/1 tsp sea salt flakes
60ml/4 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon leaves
40g/1½ oz/generous 1 cup chopped flat leaf parsley
1 small red onion, very finely chopped
105ml/7 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
60ml/4 tbsp lemon juice